Superbike handle bar

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Author: Goose, Translation: Herby





Inhaltsverzeichnis

SBL with clamping pedestals

In this customisation instruction I try and explain as simple as possible how to mount the SB clamping pedestals.

First you have to screw off the handle bar weights, then the brake pump and the shift controls/switch fittings on the right – please pull the cable plugs before disassembling and mark them with masking tape so that you remember where everything belongs.

Then unhook the cables and remove the accelerator lever.
Please don’t leave the brake pump just dangling, but use cable straps to secure them to the frame, so they won’t leak.

Then you remove the rubber bar end on the left and screw off the clutch lever and the fitting, dismount the choke and let it dangle.

Now the stub handlebars should be stripped.

Picture 1


















Then you have to screw off both screws on both sides as shown in picture 1 number 2 and take off the stub handlebars.

Then you have to take out the two little caps on top of number 1 using a screwdriver as a lever; screw off screw number 1 after having unfastened the cotter pins and the nut.
Be careful that the rubber cushions under the fork bridge (the black one) won’t fall down, as they will have to be reinstalled when mounting the clamping pedestals.

Now both of the clamping pedestals are to be mounted using the longer screws (M10 x 80).
Insert the longer screws into the two boreholes, (picture 2 arrow no.1)

Picture 2















Now you have to remount the screws, corresponding rubbers and washers the way you have dismounted them before.
Do not tighten the nuts yet, though, in order that you will be able to align well the pedestals.

Now you place the handle bar by the riffled spots into the clamping pedestals, which you then position straight.
(When you hold the handle bar up against the collet you’ll see how it has to be fitted). Now fasten the screws.

Screw the upper part of the clamping pedestal now just tight enough that you may still adjust it to the left and right without turning out of position.
Mount the motorcycle and try the sitting position.
You best do this together with another person – another pair of hands is helpful here.

Once you’ve found the right position for the handle bar you fasten the two upper parts of the clamping pedestal equally tight.
(The distances between the upper and the lower clamping pedestal should be ideally the same for both screws.) (Picture 3)

Picture 3















Now you’ve finished mounting the handle bar and you have to remount the switch units (drilling may be necessary because of the centring pin of the switch unit), the clutch and brake-fittings.
You have to make sure the cables are sufficiently long; sometimes it can be necessary to run the choke cable a bit differently so that it will fit well.

If you need a longer brake pipe or not depends on the handle bar that you use, and so cannot globally be answered in the affirmative.

After you’ve reassembled all, tighten again all the screws and check if everything is well installed and there are no kinks in the cables or other defects.

SBL with Superbike bridges

In this customisation instruction I try and explain as simple as possible how to mount the SB clamping pedestals.

First you have to screw off the handle bar weights, then the brake pump and the shift controls/switch fittings on the right – please pull the cable plugs before disassembling and mark them with masking tape so that you remember where everything belongs.

Then unhook the cables and remove the accelerator lever.
Please don’t leave the brake pump just dangling, but use cable straps to secure them to the frame, so they won’t leak.

Then you remove the rubber bar end on the left and screw off the clutch lever and the fitting, dismount the choke and let it dangle.

Now the stub handlebars should be stripped.

Jetzt sollten die Lenkerstummel nackig sein.

Picture 4


















Then you have to take out the two little caps in picture 4 number 1 using a screwdriver as a lever; screw off screw number 1 after having unfastened the cotter pins and the nut.
Be careful that the rubber cushions under the fork bridge (the black one) won’t fall down, as they will have to be reinstalled when mounting the clamping pedestals.

Then you have to remove the complete handle bar bridge with the stubs and put it aside. You don’t need it anymore.

As far as I know there are only two fork bridges for the GS. First the Spiegler bridge (Picture 5)

Picture 5, Spiegler-bridge
















In this case the mounting is a little different, as this bridge has special fixing screws.

First the handle bar has to be mounted and put into position. To do this, just insert the fixing screws into the lower pedestals, attach the handle bar and the upper clamping, and insert all onto the SB-bridge.

Tighten the two clamping screws of the pedestals from under just as much that the handle bar can still be adjusted.
Put the bridge with the handle bar now onto the lower black fork bridge and adjust the handle bar (this is a job for two).

Once the handle bar is adjusted, the bridge has to be removed again and the four screws of the clamping pedestals have to be finally pulled tight.
Then put the SB-bridge onto the fork bridge and make sure all rubbers are in the right places.

Now you have to remount the two screws, corresponding rubbers and washers the way you have dismounted them before.

When it’s done it looks like this:

Picture 6, Spiegler mounted















The further steps are as follows.

The second is the original Suzuki-bridge of the GS 500 F or the special editions of the GS 500 E (Picture 7)

(Important: it fits only into forks without adjuster, but there is the possibility to build in a riser from the big Three.)

Picture 7, Original Suzuki part















Now you have to remount the bridge just onto the upper fork bridge, and mount the two screws, corresponding rubbers and washers the way you have dismounted them before.

Now you place the handle bar by the riffled spots into the clamping pedestals.
Screw the upper part of the clamping pedestal now just tight enough that you may still adjust it to the left and right without turning out of position.
Mount the motorcycle and try the sitting position.

You best do this together with another person – another pair of hands is helpful here.

Once you’ve found the right position for the handle bar you fasten the two upper parts of the clamping pedestal equally tight.
(The distances between the upper and the lower clamping pedestal should be ideally the same for both screws.)

It looks like this then:

Picture 8 (Thanks to Sacre)















This applies again to both types:
Now you’ve finished mounting the handle bar and you have to remount the switch units (drilling may be necessary because of the centring pin of the switch unit), the clutch and brake-fittings.
You have to make sure the cables are sufficiently long; sometimes it can be necessary to run the choke cable a bit differently so that it will fit well.

If you need a longer brake pipe or not depends on the handle bar that you use, and so cannot globally be answered in the affirmative.

After you’ve reassembled all, tighten again all the screws and check if everything is well installed and there are no kinks in the cables or other defects.

Persönliche Werkzeuge